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Three Days in Lisbon by Scott Rosenberg, 11/9/2001
Dear Diana,
I was recently in Lisbon for a mere three days to play in a jazz festival. Here are
some things I experienced:
I walked and sweated up and down the broad pedestrian malls, dead tired with jet lag,
forcing myself to stay awake until dusk.
I discovered the Euro equivalent to the hot dog (a sausage in a croissant).
I saw men in sandals and women in white cotton pants.
I saw a worker hammering at a cobblestone sidewalk with a large flat stone stuck to the
end of a wooden stick.
I took part in an after hours, top volume jam session in a closed bar until 4am in a hidden
corner of the Barrio Alto.
I was served by restaurant "maidens" in blue and white striped outfits with bonnets and
aprons (like a cross between a nun and a candy striper).
I drank a 20 year old port the color of roasted plums and gold which tasted like creamed
almonds and milk chocolate raining from a peach cloud.
The group I played with, performed with? received a standing ovation
I watched nudity on television.
I ate steak covered with an egg, pork medallions sautéed with clams, grilled sardines the
size of my forearm, bony slabs of bacalao, the best herb-grilled chicken of my life, lemon
and cilantro grilled squid.
And steamed bacon (why?).
A man lent me his baritone saxophone with no hesitation after I'd known him
only three hours.
I drank whiskey out of plastic cups on a narrow cobbled street among a crowd that spilled
out of a bar.
I struggled through 35 pages of music I'd never seen until exactly 34 hours before I
performed it live.
I found a magical 6000 Eescudos that just appeared in my backpack 30
minutes before I left the country (to be hastily spent on cheese and sausage which I am
still hoarding miserly).
I inhaled the second-hand smoke of people puffing in airports, restaurants, hotel lobbies,
concert halls, elevators, bathrooms, cabs, phonebooths...
All in all, I had quite a time.
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